Chasing the Break Read online

  Little swells started coming through. I was still a bit far out, but Fisk had caught a wave and was racing away from me again. If I didn’t find a ride myself in the next few seconds, I was gone.

  I felt the lift of another swell and tried to stay with it, but it rolled on through. Again, a lift came through, and this time, I held on. Paddling madly, I tried to stay with the wave before it broke. It wasn’t a monster by any means, but it was something.

  Fisk’s wave had broken and he was body boarding in to shore. I was gaining on him as he slowed down in the shallows, but as my wave broke Fisk was on his feet and running through the shallow water, his board under his massive arm.

  I thrashed my arms to give me more power to catch the wave. Then, unlike Fisk, I let the water do as much work for me as possible before it was finally time to jump off and splash through the shallow water to the shore.

  Fisk had done more running, but he was big and strong and still had a good ten metres on me as he threw his board down and charged up the sand to circle around the flagpole.

  Out of the corner of my eye, I noticed Mr Spears with a stopwatch and clipboard. Maybe there was some sort of school record for the fastest time.

  I rounded the tall flagpole. Everyone was shouting, but I didn’t know who for. Trying to slow down my breathing, I charged back towards the water but was making no ground on Fisk. Chaz was already swimming, but his head was up and he wasn’t looking strong against the waves breaking against him.

  Fisk kept on running into the shallows, and was still running when the water was up to his knees. His big strides were taking him well out into the surf. I took one last look at his broad back and started to duck-dive my way out through the break.

  I hardly noticed the coldness of the water as I bounded out into the sea. For all my energy and desperation, I felt I had made absolutely no ground on Fisk. He was swimming strongly now. I took one last duck-dive before I too started to swim towards Matty.

  Two thoughts kept flashing through my head as I pounded out after Fisk: that I was never going to catch him, and that Mr Spears was timing the race. I wasn’t able to focus my thoughts into any more detail, though.

  Stroke after stroke, I raced through the water, well beyond the breaking waves now. Occasionally, I snuck a look out in front, to keep an eye on Fisk and Chaz. I was slowly but surely drawing closer to them. I also had to keep a line on Matty, sitting astride his surfboard, waiting for the swimmers to go round him.

  Fisk had reached Matty and I sensed he was not letting up. I had no idea he was such an awesome swimmer. I was okay myself, but you just couldn’t give a kid like Fisk that sort of headstart and expect to win.

  Not much changed as we headed out to Lisa, the second marker. Chaz was struggling big time, and I reckoned he might not even make it for third. I tried to keep my strokes long and even and my breathing regular. My arms felt like lead.

  Maybe I was mistaken, but as I caught a glimpse of Fisk rounding Lisa, I had the feeling that I had made another small gain on him.

  I knew that in the run to shore that gain could be lost in a moment, but it could give me the chance to pounce, too.

  With my heavy arms, I was slapping the water more than I was gliding through it. It was time to start looking for the swells coming through. If I could raise my effort as a wave surged beneath me, I could make more of a gain.

  Fisk seemed to be unaware of the waves building beneath us. He just kept ploughing on, heading towards the shore.

  I felt another surge and put in a huge effort, although my muscles were pleading for me to stop and rest. I stole a look ahead and realised that I’d made another few metres on him. We had now both passed Chaz. I tried for a few relaxing strokes, but again felt a push from behind.

  I grabbed a quick but deep breath and went all out to stay with the roll of the wave. I felt the force of the water lift me and push me on. I clawed my way close to Fisk who, all too quickly, realised what was happening. He tried to get on the wave I was riding but he didn’t have enough momentum going.

  The wave and I drew level with him. I bobbed my head up as the wave started to break, using one arm to steer and the other to keep pace with the wave.

  I think maybe it had been the best wave of the afternoon, certainly for me. I cruised past Fisk, who looked too tired to register anything on his face at all.

  Jumping to my feet, I sprinted for home. I’d only taken a couple of strides when I came crashing down again. The heavy paddling and swimming had knocked me about, and I didn’t seem to have enough strength in my legs to stand, let alone run in knee deep water.

  The world around me seemed to go into slow motion. I sensed Fisk looming up behind. I had the staggers. I couldn’t get back to my feet. Everything seemed to be taking an eternity. Distant noises, screams and shouts, were coming from the beach, but they were vague and blurry.

  I tried to concentrate on the people about 30 metres away. Straight away, my eyes locked onto Bubba, cheering with all his might, bouncing up and down, waving his fists and screaming. For me.

  I closed my eyes and with an effort of great willpower got to my feet. I took a step, managed to stay upright, and took another one. Then another.

  I started to push forward. Just as I sensed I was gaining some forward momentum, I felt myself being bumped off balance again, this time by Fisk, who was surging past me. I lurched to the left, stumbled, and then regained my balance. The bump seemed to have knocked some sense back into me.

  Suddenly everything was clear again. Bubba’s cheering was crystal clear across the beach.

  ‘C’mon, Mitchell, you lump, move it!’

  And I did. With every last bit of energy, I bounded after Fisk. I was fleet and fly; he was slow and thick. Well, that’s what I tried to focus on, anyway.

  As we left the water behind, we were neck and neck. It was too public for him to do anything but try to beat me fair and square.

  We stayed side by side like that nearly all the way until about five metres before the line when suddenly, above all the shouts and cheers from everyone lining the finish, there came a clear and distinct command:

  ‘Dive!’

  One minute, Fisk was there next to me, the next he was flying through the air. A bit confused, I raced on, gritting my teeth and with eyes shut, putting on a last surge as I crossed the line. I collapsed in a heap, turning round to see what had happened.

  Fisk had taken a dive when he heard the shout from the crowd. Unfortunately for Fisk, he had come up about two metres short of the line. He was lying on the beach, spitting sand and dribble from his mouth and shaking his head in confusion.

  There were more shouts as Chaz Green appeared. And right behind him was Jack, sprinting up the beach. Fisk, realising that he might not even get third, struggled to his feet, but not in time to beat Chaz or Jack, who both raced past him, flicking more sand onto him as they ran in for second and third place.

  Fisk struggled to his feet and stumbled across the line – fourth.

  I wandered away from the finish line and was set upon not only by Bubba and Bryce, but also by Luci and a few of her friends. Jack ran over and shook my hand.

  ‘Great race, Mitchell. You’re a champion,’ said Bubba.

  He seemed pretty excited by the extra company. Bryce, though, immediately started talking statistics.

  ‘Not champion yet,’ said Bryce. ‘Mitchell, I think it’s a tie. If you–’

  I put a hand on his shoulder and told him that I needed a drink first. Luci produced a bottle of icy-cold water.

  ‘I kept it for you.’

  ‘Thanks,’ I said.

  ‘You’ve earned it,’ she grinned.

  I felt a bit embarrassed, but also really proud.

  After all the gear had been packed up, we gathered around for the thankyous and the presentations.

  Bryce had become quite confused with the scoring, not knowing whether it was going to be a tie for the ironman between Fisk and me or whether one of us would w
in outright.

  If the board ride and swimming were counted as one event, the scoring system meant that I would get ten points and beat Fisk by one point. Jack would also get ten points, which would be brilliant.

  But if they were counted as separate events, then Fisk would get five points for the board leg, plus his seven for the beach flags and then another two for the swim leg, which would give him fourteen – one point more than my score.

  It didn’t take long for us to find out.

  But first there was Mrs Waite to listen to. And boy, did we listen.

  ‘There has been a good deal of confusion about whether or not the surfing and ironman events will become a part of the overall Sandhurst Legend series for this year,’ she said.

  You could have heard a pin drop on the soft sand around us, we were so quiet!

  ‘Well, after much consideration and discussion,’ she continued, ‘we have decided that the Legend of Surf down here at Rosslare Point will indeed be one of the eight Legend sports for this year.’

  There were sighs, groans, claps and cheers all at once.

  ‘But we’re not going to burden you with the traditional quiz you would normally work through with each sport. Not today, not next Wednesday, nor any other time.’

  I think she was looking around for Bryce as she said those last few words. I looked myself. He was about 30 metres away, studying shells or seaweed, totally unaware of what was happening here.

  ‘And so to our winners,’ said Mr Spears. ‘In the boy’s division, our Legend of Surf is someone new to Sandhurst.’

  My excitement grew. Of course, we had forgotten all along about the points I got from the surfing.

  ‘With a score of 18 points, a big congratulations to Mitchell Grady.’

  I got to my feet and made my way out to the front of the group. Everyone was cheering.

  I didn’t know whether they were cheering for me, or for the fact that Fisk hadn’t won, but it didn’t matter.

  I accepted the small trophy and shook hands with Mr Spears and Mrs Waite.

  ‘And now the girls. The winner, with a score of 19 points, is Penny Watson. She is our female Legend of Surf for this year.’

  Amidst clapping and cheering, Penny walked out to collect her trophy which was presented by Mr Spears.

  Cara and Luci were presented with certificates for second and third. Fisk and Chaz Green received their certificates as well.

  My mind was pretty blank. Now that it was all done, I was happy but exhausted.

  The events of the day finally caught up with me. On the bus heading back to school, I had almost nodded off when there was a yell of, ‘Dive!’ about two centimetres from my ear.

  ‘Hey, Mitch, it worked a treat, didn’t it?’ said Bubba.

  ‘What?’ I mumbled.

  ‘You know, me shouting out “dive” at Fisk just before the finish. He fell for it.’ My mind raced back to the finish. Of course: the yell from the crowd. It was Bubba.

  Suddenly a shadow loomed over us. It was Fisk. I hadn’t seen a meaner looking face, ever.

  ‘Grady, you’re a loser and don’t forget it. I will smash you in every other event this year, starting with the cricket.’

  He smirked, then looked at Bubba.

  ‘As for you, thunder guts, you’ve just put a curse on your life that you’re gonna regret forever. I’m gonna make your life hell and misery. Remember Callan?’

  Fisk gave Bubba a shove before he stormed off.

  ‘Shocking timing, Bubba,’ said Bryce, then went back to his book.

  ‘W . . . what?’ asked Bubba.

  ‘Yelling “dive” when you did just then with Fisk walking by.’

  ‘It was your idea, Bryce,’ stammered Bubba, looking paler than white.

  Luci turned round from the seat in front of us. Jack and I looked at each other.

  ‘So, the next sport in this amazing Legends thingo is cricket?’ I asked.

  ‘Correct,’ Jack replied.

  ‘Hey, Bubba, isn’t that your sport?’ I asked him, grinning.

  Bubba looked brighter.

  ‘Yep. As they say, it ain’t over till the fat boy swings!’

  Even Bryce gave Bubba a smile with that one!

  THE SANDHURST LEGEND OF SURF –

  RESULTS

  SURFING

  1st

  Penny Watson

  7 points

  2nd

  Mitchell Grady

  5 points

  3rd

  Chaz Green

  3 points

  4th

  Travis Fisk

  2 points

  5th

  David Styles

  1 point

  IRONMAN

  Beach Flags

  Place

  Name

  Points

  Total

  Equal 1st

  Travis Fisk

  7

  9

  Equal 1st

  Jack Crossly

  7

  7

  Equal 3rd

  Mitchell Grady

  3

  8

  Equal 3rd

  Lan Voh

  3

  3

  Board Paddle

  Place

  Name

  Points

  Total

  1st

  Chaz Green

  7

  10

  2nd

  Travis Fisk

  5

  14

  3rd

  Mitchell Grady

  3

  11

  4th

  David Styles

  2

  3

  5th

  Nick Krsul

  1

  1

  Swim

  Place

  Name

  Points

  Total

  1st

  Mitchell Grady

  7

  18

  2nd

  Chaz Green

  5

  15

  3rd

  Jack Crossly

  3

  10

  4th

  Travis Fisk

  2

  16

  5th

  Jules Monotti

  1

  1

  THE SANDHURST LEGEND OF SURF –

  RESULTS

  SURFING

  1st

  Penny Watson

  7 points

  2nd

  Mitchell Grady

  5 points

  3rd

  Chaz Green

  3 points

  4th

  Travis Fisk

  2 points

  5th

  David Styles

  1 point

  IRONWOMAN

  Beach Flags

  Place

  Name

  Points

  Total

  1st

  Katie Chan

  7

  7

  2nd

  Luci Rankin

  5

  5

  Equal 3rd

  Cara Thornton

  3

  3

  Equal 3rd

  Mia Tompkins

  3

  3

  Board Paddle

  Place

  Name

  Points

  Total

  1st

  Penny Watson

  7

  14

  2nd

  Mia Tompkins

  5

  8

  3rd

  Luci Rankin

  3

  8

  4th

  Cara Thornton

  2

  5

  5th

  Katie Chan

  1

  8

  Swim

  Place

  Name

  Points

  Total

  1st

  Cara Thornton

  7

  12

  2nd


  Penny Watson

  5

  19

  3rd

  Luci Rankin

  3

  11

  4th

  Mia Tompkins

  2

  10

  5th

  Rebecca Tan

  1

  1

  SURFING QUIZ

  1.

  Where is surfing thought to have originated?

  A

  From England and the First Fleet

  B

  From Eskimos close to the North Pole

  C

  From the ancient Polynesians a very long time ago

  D

  From the Dutch colonists who first visited Australia

  2.

  What are skegs?

  A

  The fins of a surfboard

  B

  The different types of boards

  C

  The patterns and drawings on a board

  D

  Surfers who ride in front of other surfers to block them

  3.

  What is the name of the famous beach near Torquay, Victoria where a big surfing competition is held every Easter?

  A

  Bobby’s Beach

  B

  Bell’s Beach

  C

  Bailey’s Beach

  D

  Back Beach

  4.

  When boards are made, they are usually covered with a glassy woven cloth called:

  A

  Polystyrene

  B

  Wax

  C

  Resin

  D

  Fibreglass